About Paw Paw, West Virginia
The Paw Paw Tunnel is one of the most stubborn acts of engineering in American infrastructure history. Designed to eliminate a six-mile series of tight river bends, the tunnel required workers to blast and hand-drill 3,118 feet through rock — a project that began in 1836, ran out of money, and took fourteen years from groundbreaking to completion, by which point the B&O Railroad had already been serving Cumberland for eight years.
The remote river community near the tunnel’s portal takes its name from the pawpaw trees that crowd the Potomac’s banks in early autumn. That remoteness persists: fewer visitors reach Paw Paw than almost anywhere else on the canal, which is exactly its appeal. Walking through the tunnel today — a single lantern, near-total silence, and the faint circle of daylight at the far end — is one of the most singular experiences on the entire 184-mile trail.
Getting There
Parking Access
The C&O Canal’s famous Paw Paw Tunnel is located just outside of town at Mile 156.1. From the center of Paw Paw, head north on Oldtown Road for approximately one mile to the small parking area near the tunnel entrance. Day and overnight parking is available here.
River Access
The Paw Paw canoe/kayak ramp drops paddlers into the heart of the famous Paw Paw Bends, a remote section of the Potomac where the river makes a dramatic series of horseshoe curves through steep mountain walls — one of the most scenic stretches on the entire river. The area offers excellent smallmouth bass fishing, and the C&O Canal towpath runs just above the water here, passing through the 3,118-foot Paw Paw Tunnel.
Where to Stay
Paw Paw is one of the most remote towns on the canal, and accommodations reflect that, which is a big part of their appeal. Bikepath Bed and Bath and the Mountain Life Inn are the in-town options, catering specifically to towpath travelers. The Paw Paw hiker/biker campsite sits at mile marker 156.1 right beside the famous tunnel, offering one of the most dramatic camping spots on the entire canal.
Town Highlights You Don't Want to Miss:
For History Lovers:
Paw Paw Tunnel
Fourteen years of digging through mountain rock produced this 3,118-foot engineering marvel, completed in 1850 to eliminate six miles of sharp river bends on the canal route. Walking through the unlit tunnel is one of the most memorable experiences on the entire 184-mile towpath.
B&O Railroad Depot
The circa 1882 depot and surrounding historic core — including the 1893 Old Mayor’s Office & Lockup and the 1876 St. Charles Catholic Mission Church — form one of the most intact small-town streetscapes on the upper Potomac. Several properties are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
For Outdoor Enthusiasts:
The Potomac through the Paw Paw Bends is flat, forgiving water — mild enough for beginners, wild enough to feel genuinely remote. Paddlers can put in at Paw Paw and work their way through the bends with the cliffs rising on both sides of the river. The Maryland shore through here is Green Ridge State Forest, with no development in sight.
Cyclists and hikers have two distinct ways to experience the tunnel: go through it on the towpath, or go over it on the Paw Paw Tunnel Hill Trail, a 3.5-mile loop that climbs up and over Sorrel Ridge with long views across the Potomac valley before descending to rejoin the towpath at the tunnel’s far portal.
Where To Eat and Drink:
Paw Paw’s main gathering spot, Big & Tiny’s Tavern serves wings, burgers, pizza, subs, and cold drinks in a no-frills setting.
Paw Paw Country Store is your best bet for stocking up. Grill staples, deli items, and general store provisions make this the practical first stop for trail users.
Plan ahead. Paw Paw is genuinely remote, and dining options are limited in both number and hours. Trail users arriving on weekdays or early in the day may find little open. Arrive provisioned.
Photos by MJ Clingan, Garner Woodall, Dusty Martin